Spectral Wave Dissipation Over a Roughness‐Varying Barrier Reef

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چکیده

Abstract The present paper reports on a field experiment performed over shallow, roughness‐varying barrier reef at Maupiti island, French Polynesia. spectral wave energy balance is examined, outside the breaking zone and accounting for non‐linear transfers mean current, to estimate friction factor. This latter varies from 0.05 4, with dependence ratio between near‐bed orbital amplitude roughness height well predicted by an adjusted parameterization Madsen (1995). results are discussed respect other data recovered coral rocky grounds.

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ژورنال

عنوان ژورنال: Geophysical Research Letters

سال: 2023

ISSN: ['1944-8007', '0094-8276']

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1029/2022gl102104